Nan's 2014 Appalachian Trail Journal

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September 18, 2014

8/26 Mile 1,744.6 hiked, 440.7 to go. 14.2 miles today to Velvet Rocks Shelter north of Hanover, NH. Out of VT. Today we were really low on food and had planned to eat at the deli in West Hartford but, when we got there, we discovered that they were closed. The community is along the White River and had suffered a lot of damage from Hurricane Irene. There are still sections of the AT that have not been rebuilt but we have seen several new bridges which I assume replaced those that were washed away. Anyhow, back to the food. After a light breakfast, I had one Luna bar and Freckles had one granola bar left. Not a lot to hike 14 miles. We lucked out and passed two section hikers heading south on a short shake-down hike to test new equipment before they set off to hike the Long Trail. After chatting for a while, Freckles mentioned that the deli had closed and we had planned to eat there. They kindly gave us two Cliff bars and a Snickers to split. Trail magic, for sure!

It was a pretty easy hike today into Norwich, VT, with several miles of road walking and several trail magic coolers out in front of homes. We had cold drinks, water melon, and homemade date nut bread. It all helped get us to town. We resupplied at Dan & Whit’s in Norwich then walked (all road walks) 1.4 miles to Hanover to collect our free bagels at the Metro and to have lunch of corned beef on rye, fruit cups, and coleslaw. The manager also gave us each a free lemon bar because he was so impressed with what two old ladies could do. He also took our picture. We have had a lot of that. We had planned to get a shower and do laundry at the Senior Center but, by the time we got there, it was too late so we just moved on to the Co Op, a large grocery store, and ate ice cream before walking out of town.

8/27 Wednesday, mile 1,759.8 hiked, 425.5 to go. 15.2 miles today. Two big climbs today, first over Moore Mtn. then over an unnamed mountain and Holts Ledge. The trail has been nice and the weather warm and sunny. We have been running into groups from the Dartmouth College Outdoor Club. There are 10 in a group and they hike shelter to shelter. Last night, there was a group at Velvet Rocks and tonight a different group at Trapper John (named for the captain in the Mash TV series, who was supposed to have graduated from Dartmouth). I guess that we will be seeing groups all up through New Hampshire. They pretty much take over a shelter and camping area. It is raining now so we will have heavy wet tents to carry tomorrow along with all the food we bought as a reaction to two days of running low. Two big climbs tomorrow, 2,366’ up and over Smarts Mtn. and 1,461’ over Mt. Cube. The thought will inspire me to eat so I don’t have to carry as much weight.

8/28 Thursday, mile 1,773.4 hiked with 411.9 to go. Hiked 13.6 today. Very long difficult hike up and over Smarts Mountain. We have been seeing a young man, Nas, and his dog, Bellie, and have been having fun hiking with him. He is just doing a section hike and was camped at Velvet Rocks with us last night. The climb up Mt. Cube was very tiring and we were glad to find a level spot to pitch our tents for the night.

8/29 Friday, mile 1,786.6, 398.7 to go. Love writing that “3” before the “miles left”! We hiked 13.2 miles to NH Rte. 25 where Whitey was waiting to pick us up. After going for something to eat at Calamity Jane’s in Warren, we went to Hikers Welcome Hostel to pick up our mail drop boxes, take showers, and do laundry. This hostel is really rough so we pitched our tents. Whitey is here to hike thru the White Mtns. with us.

8/30 After a good breakfast of pancakes, scrambled eggs, and bacon served at the hostel, we finished sorting our food and repacked our packs with our warmer clothes to start hiking the White Mountains. We had made reservation at two AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club) huts in the Whites and, since we could not change them and we were a day behind, we had to skip Mt Moosilauke for now. We will hike it on the way home from Katahdin. After getting a shuttle to drop Whitey’s car off at Crawford Notch, we shuttled to Kinsman Notch to start hiking. We hiked 7.5 miles to Eliza Brook Shelter. The hiking in the Whites is very difficult with many steep rocky ups and downs. Sometimes you can hardly do more than ½ mile in an hour.

8/31 hiked 9.5 miles today to a campsite off trail. We had hoped to reach Liberty Springs Campsite but it was raining and we were hungry so we were glad to find a spot that would hold three tents.

9/1 hiked 9.6 miles today to Garfield Ridge Shelter.

9/2 hiked 9.5 miles into Zealand Falls Hut. The hiking is hard and the views wonderful but I am too tired to write about it.

9/3 Mile 1,842.3 miles point, 343.0 to go to Katahdin. We stayed at Zealand Falls Hut last night and left this morning well fed. Last night we had stuffed shells, black bean soup, homemade bread, salad, peas, and great brownies for dessert. This morning we had oatmeal eggs, bacon, dried fruit, juice, and blue berry muffins. They do feed you well. There were two fellows staying there that are doing a section hike. They are middle aged and have been best friends since they were seven years old. We have been seeing them over the last few days and have really enjoyed their company. We also ran into Hob and Chickadee. They are hiking at about our pace so we see them just about every day.

I can’t say enough about how fabulous the scenery is here in the White Mtns. The hiking is hard and strenuous but then you get above tree line and out on an exposed ledge and wow! Today’s hike was 10.3 miles done in two sections. We hiked from Zealand Falls Hut to Rte. 302 Crawford Notch to Whitey’s car then we went to the AMC Highland Center for lunch and so I could buy a new head light. I left mine on the shelf last night above my bed at the hut. Darn. After eating lunch we went to Dry River Campground for showers and to do laundry. While our laundry was getting washed, we repacked our food bags with supplies we had left in the car. Then we got back on the trail to hike 2.4 miles up to Webster Cliffs. We were lucky and found a nice camp spot for three tents and are settled in for the night.

9/4 Mile 1,851.1 miles down and 334.2 left to go. Hiked 8.8 miles today. The weather was great, sunny and clear. Great sunrise from Webster Cliff but a long steep climb over rocks and more rocks. Lots of hands and feet climbing. We are staying at Lakes of the Clouds Hut tonight and we just finished a wonderful meal of corn chowder, salad, steak, noodles, green beans, and applesauce cake. They really do a great job at the AMC huts. When you leave, you are well fed! Today we had a lot of hiking above the tree line so the views were amazing. Mt. Washington was in the clear all day. I hope tomorrow is the same when we cross it. I love the mountains but will be glad to get out of New Hampshire mountains although there will be Maine mountains to look forward to.

9/5 Mile point 1858.1 with 327.2 to go. Hike 7.0 miles today. We had hoped to get to Osgood tent site but when we got to the bottom of Mt. Madison, we decided to stay at Madison Springs Hut for the night. Today started with a new breakfast and piece of pumpkin bread with a dragonfly on it, in the icing, of course, not a real one and a candle to celebrate my 74th birthday. Whitey must have told them it was my birthday. Everyone sang happy birthday. We then hiked up to the top of Mt. Washington. It was clear and not very windy. The last time I was here, it was raining, sleeting, and freezing cold, and very foggy. Today was not crystal clear but we had nice views. Whitey left us here to take the Cog Railway down the mountain. He will then have to work his way back to his car. The hike down from Mt. Washington summit and the whole way to Madison is very rocky. Not hands and feet climbing but walking on large rocks. The views are great but all of your attention is on your feet. Last night Sassafras and Spif came into Madison Springs Hut but went on to the camp site. We are still seeing a lot of northbound hikers, some we know but also a lot of new people.

9/6 Mile 1,865.9 with 319.4 to go. We climbed into Pinkham Notch after a very tiring 7.8 mile trek over Mt. Madison. The climb from Madison Springs Hut is steep and rocky but really not too bad but the descent from 5,366’ to 2,544’ is horrible and tiring. Just rocks and more rocks. We will be glad to be out of New Hampshire and the White Mountains so that we can have some normal trails. It will be a few days but, hopefully, the end is near. Tomorrow we start thru the Wildcat Range which I remember from my other hike to be really hard and rough. We are staying at the Joe Dodge Outdoor Center which is another AMC facility. Good dinner and breakfast but, after four days of good meals at the huts, we will soon be back to our regular fare of pack food.

This is Drag’n Fly signing out.

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